How Do I Deep Clean My Kitchen Cabinets (non Toxic)?


1. Does anyone know of a weed killer that is non-toxic to dogs?

Hot water Boiling hot

2. What are your thoughts on child safe, all natural and non-toxic nail polish for kids?

I do not like nail polish on little girls. It's in the same category as makeup to me and it just does not look right on a child. I think the product you mention sounds like a good idea though. A lot of little girls do want to use nail polish so that's a good way to keep them safe from harsh chemicals.

3. I have ants in my kitchen!! How can I get rid of them in a non-toxic-to-humans way? I want nothing to spray!?

My Mom swears by lime rind and cloves, but you end up having to put them out frequently. Also, Borax is supposed to work. (Borax is a non-toxic laundry additive that you can likely get at your local store. I know I've seen it in both Italy and England. ).

4. Fireproof liquids that are non-toxic to carbon based life?

If you are aiming for a conventional fireproofing solution, Hoyle's answer is probably the best. Water is nonflammable, has an very high heat capacity, is abundant, and obviously nontoxic.That said, humans contain a great deal of water and yet are still vulnerable to fire. If you want creatures that are much more resistant to flames, I would try insulating their skin, instead of attempting to make their biology inherently flame retardant.If you are okay using an ablative heat shield (which would need to be replenished over time, but that is fine if it is part of a living organism), something like Starlite could do the trick (the original formula for the insulator is actually unknown, but a really good imitation can be made with simple household ingredients). When exposed to fire, it releases a layer of CO2 just above its surface, repelling the flames. It also forms a black coating on the surface that radiates heat extremely well. Combining these two properties, a thin coating of the stuff can protect quite well against fire (some videos showcase it being able to keep an egg uncooked with direct exposure to a welding torch).The chemistry of the stuff is pretty simple, and you could probably come up with a biological analogue for it. That, or you could just give the creature thick skin/scales made of a decent insulator, so it could survive fire at least for a little while.If you want the creature to be comfortable in flames for a prolonged amount of time, the main challenge after insulating it from the heat is breathing. You would need to be able to filter out the smoke, and also deal with breathing in superheated air. You could try giving it a long-ish and more heat-resistant windpipe (not necessarily in a straight line though, so a long neck is not required) to filter the air and also absorb/radiate off some of that heat before it reaches the lungs. This is a bit inefficient for creatures on earth but if surviving fire is a requirement it's not out of the question.That, or the creatures would need to be capable of holding their breath for a long time. Certain whales can hold their breath for 90 minutes

5. Clay that's non-toxic and hardens sturdy?

I agree about the alginate (more below). Air-dry clays also shrink while drying but to various degrees. They will take somewhat good detail, depending on brand and type. Polymer clay would work and not shrink when hardened, but some people feel it's perhaps not really safe to eat in any way. The risk would be small if only for some seconds though and mouth washed out afterwards. It will take fine detail. Alginate is the particular molding material that many dentists use to take "impressions" of teeth in the mouth. It also wo not shrink while hardening, and will take very fine detail. It's not really "hard-hard" when hardened, but is plenty tough and only somewhat flexible. Here's the dump of info I have about it on my site, some seems to be relating to dental casts, some to ear casts (for hearing aids): ...alginate/alginate based compounds (semi-flexible ....molds last only a few days?): ....Alginate is a wonderful material. As an ex-dental assistant I MUST warn you of a few facts however for using it: 1) It MUST be mixed thoroughly. Do not leave lumps. It should not be runny when finally mixed. 2) The temperature of the water is critical. The warmer the water the faster the set up time. And I mean it can set up before you finished mixing! 3) Use a rubber mixing bowel and a plastic wide spatula. 4) Clean off the bowl and spatula as soon as possible. Many people will tell you that it is ok to let it set up and then peel it all off, but you will probably have to use scotch brite to get it all off and that will scratch the bowl. I used to teach dental assisting and after 21 years of experience it is better not to be lazy. Have someone help you while you do this. Use a small plastic container to put your alginate in and then "lay your ear" into it till it sets up. 5) Clean excess off your skin as quickly as possible. Around ears we have fine hairs that will harden up along with the alginate and it will be very uncomfortable to get off! 6) The biggest problem with alginate is air bubbles, so mix well and place your ear into it slowly to allow for the air bubbles to escape. 7) Yes! I have done this before! Good luck! Robin R. ....Alginate....FX supply houses carry it in bulk and it's cheaper than dental alginate. It sets up quickly, does not heat up the way plaster does and is more comfortable during the mold process. . . . Katherine Dewey ....Depends on how much of your body you want cast, and in how much detail. Face casts are usually made using prosthetic grade algenate, a substance made from seaweed, which picks up everything down to zits and the fine lines that texture your skin. Larger areas that do not need such fine detail can be cast using plaster bandages made for this purpose. ....Check your library for make-up books. "Techniques of 3-D Makeup" will tell you all you need to know about casting faces, ears, hands, etc. .... Various kinds of materials can be "cast" in the various mold materials after they've hardened, though plaster is one that's often used in alginate molds by dentists or at least that's been traditional for a long time.

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